The two halves of Texas

The east and west are very different places

This is probably what you first think of when you hear ‘Texas’. Photo by Vivian Arcidiacono on Unsplash

Over the years I’ve made a lot of videos about where people live and, more importantly, where they don’t. Throughout all of these videos, the one place that has been requested the absolute most is Texas. To be honest, I’ve sort of steered away from making this video for Texas because even my own stereotypes of the state had me thinking that it was going to be a pretty boring video. No offense, Texas, but you’re mostly flat! But I’m happy to admit when I’m wrong. In doing the research and studying Texas, the state is far more diverse than I originally thought. Real TIL moment for me!

As usual, if you prefer you can watch the video here, but otherwise keep scrolling to read the article.

Texas is the second-largest state in the United States by both population and land area. Yet, despite its vast size (nearly 270,000 square miles) its population is decidedly not evenly distributed. In fact, more than 80% of Texas' 31-ish million residents live on less than 30% of the state’s land. This huge majority is concentrated in the far eastern part of the state, while the much larger West Texas region remains sparsely populated.

So if everything is bigger in Texas, why do most Texans live in a relatively small area? The physical geography of the region tells a part of this story, but, as usual, it’s history is a big part of it as well.

A brief history of Texas

The development of Texas as a population center had a bit of a rough start. While the area has always been home to many indigenous tribes, such as the Comanche, Apache and Caddo peoples, initial colonization efforts fell a bit flat. Though Spanish explorers first explored and subsequently claimed the land in the 1500s, they largely ignored it for more than a century. Because of this, it would actually be the French to establish the first European settlement in Texas by accident in 1684. The French established a fort near present day Corpus Christi in Texas thinking they were putting a fort at the mouth of the Mississippi River, a region France has claimed as their own, though the indigenous people would likely disagree. Anyway, upon learning of the French fort on their ignored territory, the Spanish quickly expanded their presence into Texas, founding missions and military outposts, most notably a mission that would eventually become the city we know and love today: San Antonio.

But while Spain would begin its colonization of Texas, they would never really be all that successful. In fact, it would take until the early 1800s for Texas to really start to grow under the auspices of an independent Mexico. Texas’ geographic isolation from Mexico City made it a neglected frontier that few Mexicans wanted to settle in (though some certainly did!), leading Mexico to invite American settlers to bolster its population. These American settlers, just due to the pure proximity to the United States, largely settled in East Texas. And it was this influx of settlers, combined with cultural and political tensions — the Americans didn’t want to covert to Catholicism and they definitely wanted to keep their enslaved peoples! — led to the Texas Revolution in 1836, culminating in the establishment of the independent Republic of Texas, something most current Texans won’t let you forget existed.

Now, as it turns out, running your own country is kind of hard. Financial instability and an increasing amount of debt began to sink Texas’ prospects as an independent country. And a continuing conflict with Mexico didn’t make things any easier. So, in 1845, Texas to join the United States, which was really what Texas wanted all along anyways and this directly led to the Mexican-American War, which the United States won and that’s how the U.S. not only acquired Texas but really the entirety of the southwest, including California.

Interestingly, Texas’ borders originally stretched further west and north, encompassing parts of present-day New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Kansas, and Oklahoma. However, in 1850, as part of a compromise, Texas ceded this land in exchange for debt relief, establishing the boundaries we recognize today.

All of this is to say, though, that Texas’ early American populations were always based in the east, leaving West Texas almsot entirely empty. And here’s where the physical geography comes into play!

Geographic influences on Texas’ population

Texas is often thought of as a dry, rough and tumble, wild west-styled desert. At least whenever it seems to be depicted in Hollywood (or at least older Hollywood westerns). But this depiction is pretty far from what actually exists! Texas’ geography is far more diverse than even I realized before looking more into it. The state encompasses forests, plains, coastal areas, and even mountains, each influencing settlement patterns.

The eastern part of Texas is surprisingly lush and fertile, with regions such as the Piney Woods and the Gulf Coast receiving ample rainfall, up to 70 inches per year in some areas. The major rivers of Texas, including the Brazos, Colorado, and Red Rivers, provide a steady water supply, supporting agriculture, industry, and urban development. The Gulf Coast also offers strategic economic advantages with major ports, such as the Port of Houston, which has historically facilitated trade and industry growth.

In contrast, West Texas is characterized by its arid climate, with much of the region receiving less than 10 inches of rainfall annually. The terrain here transitions from the High Plains to the rugged Trans-Pecos, home to desert landscapes and mountain ranges such as the Davis, Chisos, and Guadalupe Mountains. Now, while this region can be visually stunning, the lack of water sources made large-scale settlement difficult, thus limiting population growth overall.

Economic drivers of population density

Beyond its physical geography, economic factors also played a role in shaping Texas’ settlement patterns. The discovery of oil in East Texas in the early 1900s triggered a population boom, particularly in cities like Houston and Dallas, which grew into major economic hubs. Houston, in particular, benefited from its proximity to the Gulf, emerging as a center for energy, shipping, and industry.

West Texas, while also rich in oil, developed at a much smaller scale. The Permian Basin, one of the world’s largest oil-producing regions, attracted some economic growth, particularly in cities like Midland and Odessa, but overall the wealth generated by this oil still flowed to Houston. Because of this, ranching remained the dominant industry which required far fewer people compared to the dense industrial and commercial hubs in the east.

Infrastructure and urbanization

Finally, infrastructure has reinforced these economic and geographic divides. East Texas has long been integrated into national and international trade networks. Major highways, railroads, and airports connect the region’s cities to the broader economy, making it an attractive location for businesses and migration. Houston’s port, the largest in the United States by tonnage, further solidifies its role as an economic powerhouse.

West Texas, on the other hand, remains far more isolated. While Interstate 10 and 20 link El Paso to Dallas and Houston, much of the region lacks the same level of connectivity. Without significant transportation and trade infrastructure, the region has struggled to attract large-scale economic activity and, consequently, large populations.

The present-day divide

Today, Texas’ population reflects these historic and geographic trends. The vast majority, 24-ish million out of 31 million Texans—live in the east, concentrated in urban areas such as Dallas-Fort Worth (8.1 million), Houston (7.5 million), San Antonio (2.7 million), and Austin (2.5 million). In contrast, the largest metro areas in West Texas, such as El Paso (873,000) and Lubbock (400,000), pale in comparison.

While West Texas offers cultural and natural attractions, including Big Bend National Park and the Guadalupe Mountains, these features have not been enough to drive significant permanent population growth. Instead, the combination of limited water resources, economic opportunities, and infrastructure has left the region sparsely populated compared to its eastern counterpart.

Ultimately, Texas’ population disparity is the result of a complex interplay between history, geography, economy, and infrastructure. While West Texas remains an integral part of the state’s identity, its vast open spaces serve as a reminder of the powerful forces that shape human settlement.